How to Build the TARDIS Book Nook (Mysterious Blue Box): Complete Doctor Who Kit Guide with Videos

The Mysterious Blue Box is the book nook Doctor Who fans keep asking us about: a blue police box that slides between your books and opens onto a lit TARDIS console room. It's also a kit people get stuck on, usually at the fiber optics or the doors. This guide takes you through the whole TARDIS book nook build section by section. Under each section you'll find the matching part of a complete video series, so you can see how a step should look before you commit any glue.

Here's the finished model first, so you know where you're heading:

TARDIS Book Nook: Quick Facts

• Pieces: 368 laser-cut parts, plus acrylic panels, printed papers and stickers.
• Finished size: 24 x 18 x 13 cm (9.45 x 7.09 x 5.12 in).
• Build time: the video series below adds up to about 7 hours of recorded building, spread over 8 evenings. Our own estimate is 6 to 8 hours.
• Difficulty: beginner to intermediate. The structure is straightforward; the fiber optics and the light wiring are where you'll need patience.
• Lighting: LED strings and optical fiber, powered by a battery box with a touch sensor. Batteries are not included.

Each video below is part of the full series: when one part finishes, the next one starts on its own.

Before You Start: Tools and Prep

The box holds sheets of laser-cut wood, clear acrylic parts with a protective film on both sides, translucent window papers, several sticker sheets, the LED strings with the battery box and touch sensor, a bundle of optical fiber, small hinges with paper-fastener style pins for the doors, a tiny tea set, a pair of tweezers and a sanding stick. The instruction manual is illustrated rather than written, and the drawings are clear enough to follow.

A few extras make the build noticeably easier. We cover the full list in our guide to the tools and supplies you need to build a book nook, but for this kit in particular:

• A clear-drying craft glue with a fine nozzle (the B-7000 type). You'll use tiny dots of it on almost every step.
• A hot glue gun for anchoring light strings and fiber bundles. It grips fast and peels off cleanly if you need a second try.
• Small clamps or clothes pegs to hold walls square while the glue sets.
• Cotton swabs for wiping away excess glue before it dries.
• A craft knife and a metal ruler for scoring the paper books.
• A dark paint marker (optional) to hide the burnt brown edges left by the laser. It's a small touch that makes the finished interior look far more convincing.

Two habits will save you time. Untangle the LED strings before you start, because they come bundled and twist around each other. And plug the battery box in every time you finish a lighting step, so you catch a loose connection while it's still easy to reach.

Part 1: The Time Rotor Column and Fiber Optics (Step 1)

The build starts from the very centre: the glowing column in the middle of the console. Three of the short plain LEDs go up through notches in the base, then the engraved panels form a hexagon around them, textured side facing out. Once the clear acrylic tube sits inside, the engraving catches the light and you get that swirling Gallifreyan script effect.

Then comes the fiddliest job of the whole kit: threading the optical fiber. These are the fine strands that give the console its "time vortex" glow. In Daniel's kit the strands were labelled 40 and 45 (centimetres). The longer ones went through the four front holes and the shorter ones through the four at the back. The bundled ends are then gathered about 5 mm below the hole and held together.

• Thread the fiber before you drop in the acrylic cylinder. With the cylinder in place there's no room to work, and Daniel ended up taking his back out.
• The sticker supplied to hold the fiber bundles doesn't always grip. A small blob of hot glue on the bundle holds much better.
• Budget extra time. This single step filled an entire session in the video. That's normal, and nothing afterwards is this finicky.

Part 2: Building the TARDIS Console (Steps 2 and 3)

Now the console takes shape around the column. A ring and a set of small V-shaped supports form the skeleton, and the kit includes one spare support in case you break one (Daniel did). The printed control panels are acrylic pieces that slide in between the ribs of the frame, with a matching strip wrapped around the edge afterwards.

The most important detail here is the light. The fiber only glows properly when its cut ends sit right against the LED bulb. If the ends just point in the general direction, the strands barely light up. Bundle them tight and glue them straight onto the bulb.

• Peel the protective film off every acrylic panel on both sides. Glue sticks to the acrylic, not to the film.
• Do the fiber-to-LED connection before you fix the floor. Once the floor is in, there's very little space to reach it.
• Use very little glue on the panels. They go in blind, and too much glue smears onto the printed faces.
• A spacer collar glued onto the lower ring holds the console at the right height. Check it's level before the lid goes on.

Part 3: Stairs, Railings and 20 Miniature Books (Steps 4 to 7)

With the console done, the room starts to grow outward: two flights of stairs, their side walls and floors, and the clear railings. The step pieces are small and some of them sit loose, so a tiny dot of glue on each one as you go saves you from watching them fall out later.

The carpet runners are stickers that run up the stairs. Daniel's first attempt pulled the steps apart because nothing was glued yet. On the second staircase he glued the structure first and applied the carpet afterwards, and it went on cleanly. Do it in that order.

Step 6 is book-making: 17 small wooden blocks that you wrap in printed sticker covers, plus 3 "opening" books folded from sticker sheets. The block books are quick. For the paper ones, score the fold lines with a ruler and a knife before folding, and cut them away from the rest of the sheet first so the adhesive doesn't catch on anything.

Part 4: Furnishing the Console Room (Steps 8 to 13)

This is the most enjoyable stretch of the build, and the one where the scene comes to life: a grandfather clock, a writing desk scattered with papers and a stack of books, a bookcase, a wingback chair, a small side table with a tea set, and a guitar. Behind them goes a star field backdrop and a glass wall with frames.

• Check which face should show before you glue each piece of furniture. On the clock, for example, the grey face goes towards the room, not outwards.
• Put the tablecloth strip on the side table before adding the tea set. Wrapping it afterwards is awkward, and on its own the sticker tends to peel. A thin line of glue under it fixes that. Daniel's came loose overnight and he had to redo it.
• The star field has a brighter side. Make sure that one faces the front.
• Clamp the bookcase square while the glue sets, otherwise it dries at a slight angle.

Part 5: The Upper Balcony and Dalek Corridor (Step 14)

Step 14 is a long one: the second level of the room. You build the balcony floor with its glass railings, a doorway into a back corridor, more bookshelves and the corridor panel where a Dalek waits. The characters in this kit, including the Dalek, are flat printed wooden cut-outs rather than sculpted 3D figures. Once they're lit and set back in the scene, they read very well.

• Apply the side stickers and papers while the pieces are lying flat. The manual has you do some of them after the walls are standing, which is much harder.
• A drop of super glue on each balcony corner keeps the frame square.
• Make sure the balcony sits level when you mount it on its four supports. Daniel's settled with a visible downward slope and he had to lift it and re-glue it in Part 7.

Part 6: Wiring the Lights and Building the Police Box Exterior (Steps 15 to 22)

Time to run the remaining lights. The two uninsulated LED strings are different lengths (about 60 cm and 95 cm in the video), and the shorter one goes first. The battery box has its own slot at the bottom, so work out where the wires will run before you glue anything down.

Hot glue doesn't stick well to the coated wire itself. Wrapping the string once around a post or tab holds it far better, with a dab of glue on the wood if needed. Space the bulbs out behind the printed panels, since a bulb pressed right against the paper makes a harsh hot spot.

Then the outside finally appears: the blue walls of the police box, frosted window papers, window frames and the two doors. The doors swing on small hinges fixed with paper-fastener style pins instead of screws. They work well, but check the manual drawing before you close the pins. The hinges sit on the inside of the frame, with the door mounted on the outside of the hinge. Daniel had to flip his once.

• If a wall panel won't sit flush, lightly bevel the corner of the piece pushing against it with the sanding stick.
• Fix the walls first and hang the doors afterwards. It gives the glue on the walls time to set before you start moving the doors.
• Tack any wobbly wall with a single drop of glue in the top corner. It doesn't need to be structural, just enough to hold it upright.

Part 7: The Gallifreyan Roof Lantern (Step 23)

The ceiling is a three-tier lantern wrapped in strips of Gallifreyan symbols. The tiers are keyed with different tabs so they can't go in upside down, which is a nice touch. The symbol strips are long stickers with only a narrow surface to grip, so run a very thin bead of glue under each one to make sure they stay put. Start at the back seam, so any misalignment ends up where nobody looks.

The lantern drops over the central column. After that, you route the ceiling LED string so the light falls down onto the console room, and place the last few bulbs behind the star field and the corridor. Test with the room lights off: this is the moment the whole interior finally glows.

Part 8: Back Panel, Roof and Finishing Touches (Final Steps)

The last session closes the box: the back panel with its frosted window, and the stepped roof layers on top. Touch up any visible tabs with paint before they're locked in, since they're easy to spot on the finished model.

Daniel then goes a step further and replaces the touch sensor with a push-button light he mounts as the lamp on the roof. It looks great, but it involves opening the battery box circuit, drilling the roof and soldering. You don't need it, and we'd only suggest it if you're comfortable with basic electronics. If you'd rather leave the wiring alone, the kit works exactly as designed with the touch sensor.

Common Problems and How to Fix Them

The fiber optic strands barely glow

The cut ends aren't touching the LED. Gather them into a tight bundle and glue it directly onto the bulb, then test before you close anything up.

Stickers keep peeling off

Long, narrow stickers like the tablecloth, the console trim and the roof symbols don't have enough surface to hold alone. Add a thin line of clear glue underneath.

Walls or furniture wobble

Many joints are friction fit and a little loose. A single dot of glue in a corner is enough, and a clamp while it sets keeps everything square.

The lights turn on or off by themselves

Touch sensors can react to a hand nearby or to the wires moving. Keep the sensor lead away from the LED strings and make sure the battery box sits firmly in its slot. Loose battery contacts cause most flickering.

A piece seems to be missing

Check the sheets again before assuming it's gone: some tiny parts are still attached to their frame, and the manual drawings sometimes show a piece a step early. If you bought the kit from us and something really is missing, get in touch and we'll sort it out.

Making It Look Even More Like the TARDIS

A few small upgrades make a big difference. Painting the burnt laser edges inside the room hides the raw wood and makes the interior look finished. Any spare books from the kit can go in a small stack in front of a bookcase. And angling the ceiling lights towards the console, rather than straight down, brings out the engraved script on the time rotor. If you're after ideas for showing it off once it's done, have a look at our tips on displaying your book nook collection and photographing your book nook.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to build the TARDIS book nook?

Plan for 6 to 8 hours. The complete build in the videos above adds up to about 7 hours of recorded work over 8 sessions. The fiber optics and the wiring take the longest. For a broader look at build times, see how long it takes to build a book nook.

Is the Mysterious Blue Box book nook hard to build?

It's rated beginner to intermediate. The structure is clear and well keyed; the parts that need patience are threading the optical fiber and routing the light strings. If it's your first kit, our guide on how to build your first book nook is a good place to start.

Is there a PDF of the Mysterious Blue Box instructions?

The kit comes with a printed, illustrated manual. We don't host a PDF, but the video series in this guide works as a complete visual companion to every step.

Is glue included?

Kits shipped from our EU or US stock include glue. Kits shipped internationally don't, because of air freight restrictions on adhesives.

Are batteries included?

No. You'll need batteries for the battery box.

Are the characters 3D figures?

No. The characters, including the Dalek, are flat printed wooden (MDF) cut-outs placed inside the scene.

How do the lights turn on?

Through a small touch sensor wired to the battery box. You place the sensor during the final wiring steps, so it's worth choosing a spot you can reach easily once the book nook is on the shelf.

Is this an official Doctor Who product?

No. It's a fan-inspired DIY kit and it isn't affiliated with or endorsed by the BBC.

Where can I buy the TARDIS book nook kit?

You'll find it in our shop as the TARDIS book nook kit (Mysterious Blue Box), with the full specifications and what's in the box.

Ready to Build Your Own?

If you've read this far, you already know the tricky parts better than most first-time builders. The TARDIS book nook kit comes with everything shown in the videos. Put the kettle on, clear an evening, and start with the time rotor.

About the Videos in This Guide

The videos come from Daniel Builds, who filmed his whole Mysterious Blue Box build in real time, including the mistakes and how he fixed them. We aren't connected to his channel; it's simply the most complete walkthrough of this kit we've found. If it helps you, give him a subscribe.